We recommend using a white thin-set
mortar with a flexible acrylic additive. Apply this mixture with the
manufacturer’s recommendations of notch trowel. Spread only enough adhesive as
will be covered with the tile within 15 minutes. Back-butter each piece of tile
with the flat edge of the trowel. Be sure to achieve full coverage on the back
of the tile in order to avoid the notch marks in the thin set from showing
through the glass. Carefully, press the glass into the thin set mixture leaving
even spacing between tiles. We recommend using 1/8" spacers to ensure even
spacing. Allow for movement joints where the tile abuts restraining surfaces
and around the perimeter of the installation. Grout with an unsanded grout, to prevent
scratching, after the adhesive has had proper time to cure according to the
manufacturer’s recommendations.
Cutting
A ceramic tile cutter is not recommended. We recommend using a wet saw with a diamond blade designed for
cutting glass tile. A porcelain continuous blade is best suited for cutting
glass, and is available in multiple sizes. Whenever possible, cut edges should
be placed in corners where they can be hidden.
To dress (smooth) the cut edges of the glass tile use a #120 lapidary (tile rub stone) or 220 thru 600 grit PVA
polishing pads available from Alpha Professional Tools or MK Diamond. Do not
contact the face of the tile during dressing as this will damage the tile
surface.
Drilling
We recommend using a drill bit that is especially designed for glass. The glass tile must be securely champed into
place to prevent movement of the tile during the drilling process. When
drilling the hole, keep the bit and hole lubricated to prevent chipping. We
recommend drilling from both ends of the tile, starting with the black and the
drilling half the depth of the tile. Then, turn the tile over and complete the
hole. This will prevent the glass from chipping as the drill bit exits the
tile.
Material Inspection and Substrate Preparation
These instructions are provided as a general guideline for installing glass tile; some installations require
different or more detailed specifications. An experienced, professional tile
installer who is familiar with the following procedures should perform the work
for such installations. Please read and understand these instructions before
beginning any work.
Verifying Dye Lot Consistency
The owner or end user is responsible for determining the acceptability of the product. Due to the handmade, artistic
nature of our product, variation in color, shade, tone, and size is normal.
Upon delivery, open and inspect each box of tile.
Verify dye lot consistency in the following manner. To
establish color control samples, randomly select 5 pieces from your order
from different boxes.
To assure shade variations are acceptable check the
remaining sheets or field tile in your order against the control samples,
prior to installation.
If ordering additional materials, sample shall be sent
to help attempt to match previously ordered material.
Tips To Achieve Better Installations
All mortar beds shall cure no less than 7 days prior to glass tile installation.
All glass tile installations benefit from extended cure times (48 hours or longer) prior to grouting or foot traffic.
All submerged or heavy water use applications shall
cure no less than 21 days after grouting before submersion or heavy water
use.
Substrates
The performance of a properly installed thin-set tile application is dependent upon the durability and
dimensional stability of the substrate to which it is bonded. The following
recommendations are from the Tile Council of North America’s “2007 TCA Handbook
for Ceramic Tile Installation” and are general in nature (www.tileusa.com)
For large format glass tile installations, horizontal
solid blocking shall be installed in the framing every 18" and at all
CBU board transitions.
Membrane meeting ANSI A108.02-3.8 (2005) high solids,
cold applied membrane: ASTM C836 shall be used only with opaque glass tile.
All joints on CBU should be taped with the CBU
manufactures’ recommended mesh tape and allowed to cure 48 hours prior to
installation.
Unacceptable Substrates
Single-float mortar bed walls not employing cured scratch coats
Poultry netting (chicken wire) or metal lath less than 2.5 lbs. per square yard in wire reinforced mortar beds
Wood products, such as plywood, luan, MDF, MDX, press board and composites
Setting Systems
All materials should be used according to manufacturer’s instructions. Due to the translucent nature of
glass, the color of the bonding material will impact the ultimate look of the
tile. We recommend the use of specific white bonding mortars, some mixed
with specific latex admix. See the following list for required thin-sets and
follow manufacturer’s recommended cure times for all setting materials. Pools,
spas and all submerged applications require a minimum 210 day cure time after
grouting and before submersion or exposure to heavy water use.
When mixing setting and grouting
materials do not exceed 300 RPM or the manufacturer’s recommendations. Most
setting and grouting materials need to slake (sit) 10-15 minutes after mixing
and remixed before use.
Select one of these required white Thin-Set Mortar Systems
Acceptable Setting Systems
CUSTOM BUILDING PRODUCTS: Premium Plus Thin-Set Mortar mixed with Custom Flex Ultra-Strength Thin-Set Additive.
CUSTOM BUILDING PRODUCTS: MegaFlex Crack Prevention Mortar.
CUSTOM BUILDING PRODUCTS: MegaLite Crack Prevention Mortar.
Organic adhesive (mastic) – due to yellowing and low bond strengths.
Epoxy – due to low flexibility, as well as degradation in UV sunlight.
Movement Joints
Movement joints are essential for the success of most tile installations. Follow recommendations on Movement
Joints EJ 171-07 in the “2007 TCA Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation”.
Movement joint requirements will vary depending on substrata, climate and size
of installation. An architect or design professional should be consulted when
specifying the exact number and location of each movement joint. Certain
applications may require a different type of sealant.
Install grout mix according to manufacturer’s instructions. Grout joints shall be full and uniformly finished. Due to the
impervious quality of glass, the grout will take longer to begin setting-up.
For initial cleaning of grout from the tile face, use clean, dry cheesecloth.
This wicks additional moisture from the grout and avoids washing out of the
joints. Use only a clean, damp sponge for the final cleaning and smoothing of
the joints. For final polishing of excess grout haze use a clean, soft cloth.
We recommend using un-sanded grout for installation of the glass tile. The following are a few products we recommend:
NOTE: An acrylic grout admix can improve freeze-thaw resistance. Check with the manufacturer for their
recommendation on specific applications.
Anti-Fracture/Waterproofing Membranes
CUSTOM BUILDING PRODUCTS: RedGuard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane
These instructions are provided as a general guide to most installations. Please read and understand this information before proceeding. The stainless steel is a 7mm ceramic tile body wrapped with 1mm of stainless steel creating an elegant, stylish and contemporary look. Its primary use is interior wall applications though it can be used on interior floors as well. If used on the floor this tile will wear as any metal floor tile will, showing scratches and developing a burnished appearance over time.
Applications
High Temperature installations are those defined by but not limited to backsplash areas behind cooktops or fireplace faces.
Cooktops: Maintain a minimum distance of four and a half inches between tiled surfaces and burner elements. When large cooking vessels are in use on back burners the same four and a half inch distance must be maintained. Due to expansion and contraction of the steel, flexible sealant/caulk is required in place of cement grout in critical areas noted below.
Fireplace Faces: Maintain a minimum distance of six inches from fireplace opening on all sides. Due to expansion and contraction of the steel, flexible sealant/caulk is required in place of cement grout in critical areas noted below.
Flexible sealant/caulk referred to above, shall be used anywhere tile work abuts restraining surfaces such as perimeter walls, inside corners, dissimilar floors, curbs, counters, columns, pipes, ceiling, cabinets or any projection through the tiled surface.
Floors: Interior concrete slabs require a 28 day minimum cure time. Additional truing/leveling and repair of any surface cracks may be necessary prior to installation. Cement backer board or cement mortar bed is required over interior wood sub-floors.
Stainless steel tiles are not for shower, bathroom or kitchen floors where puddles or standing water may exist.
Walls: Concrete/masonry and cement backer board can be used for both interior and exterior walls. Gypsum board may be used on interior walls.
Installation
These stainless steel tiles are all face taped for the protection of the tile finish during the course of the installation. Avoid prolonged exposure to heat or direct sunlight. This can make stripping the tape difficult and may leave adhesive residue on the surface of the tile damaging the product. Do not remove until after the final clean-up. The individual patterns pressed into the stainless steal tiles provide different effects according to how the tiles are placed. Each tile comes with a half round notch on one side of the steel facing to provide reference no the patterns direction.
Setting Material & Method
Mortar: To minimize slippage and gain superior adhesion use a premium thin-set mortar modified with polymer or latex.
Cutting/Drilling
Eye protection should always be worn when cutting, drilling or grinding porcelain or metal tile. Stainless steel tile is challenging to cut. Cuts must be made with a wet saw and a new diamond rimmed blade designed to cut the tile. Tile should be cut face up. Miter cuts are not recommended. Care should be taken cut steel tile can have very sharp edges and burrs. These can be smoothed and dulled with a diamond hand pad, tile blade dressing stone or belt sander using silicone carbide belt.
Drilling holes through stainless steel can be accomplished with a diamond tipped core bit using a drill with low speed (250 to 300 rpm). Continually missing the tile and drill bit during cutting is necessary. Maintain only moderate pressure during this process. Allow the diamond bit to do the cutting. Again, this helps to keep friction heat low. If partitions or fixtures are to be attached with anchoring bolts, drill hole 1/8” larger to avoid stress transfer to the tile.
Grouting
Stainless steel tiles require flexible sealant/caulk be used anywhere tilework abuts restraining surfaces such as perimeter walls, inside corners, dissimilar floors, curbs, counters, columns, pipes, ceilings, cabinets or any projection through the tiled surface and in compliance with the current Tile Council of America guidelines.
After installation it is recommended the tile be cleaned with a commonly accepted neutral cleaner. Some recommended products are Aqua Mix (800-366-6877) Concentrated Tile Cleaner or TEC (800-832-9023). White nylon scrub pad or cheese cloth is good for wiping off initial heavy film, finish with a clean grout sponge or slightly damp terry cloth towel preferably white as dyes may transfer to the grout joint.
Maintenance
Stainless steel may be cleaned with warm water and soap or a mild detergent. Rinse the surface with clean water. Wipe with a soft, clean cloth.
Do not leave detergents containing bleach in contact with the surface.
Do not leave cloths, sponges, or any other material soaked in detergents in contact with the surface.
Do not use abrasive or scratching products. Do not use brushes or steel wool.
When using products of unknown composition or potentially aggressive formulations, a small hidden area of the surface should be cleaned first to assess any change in appearance.
Tips
When cutting stainless steel slow steady pressure will achieve a smother cut.
Work small areas of 4 to 6 sqft that can be accomplished in 15 to 20 minutes. This will assure bonding mortar is fresh.
A small Dremel hand grinder is found in most hardware stores is easy to use and precise for smoothing cut edges.
After 4 to 5 cuts or if strong pressure is required, re-dress the diamond blade with an abrasive dressing stone. This will expose a fresh supply of diamonds on the blade rim and maintain consistent smooth cuts.
MK-225 Hot Dog is a thinner blade with a soft diamond rim designed for cutting hard porcelain tile. This narrower blade provides less cutting resistance. It is efficient for cutting stainless steel provided regular re-dressing of the blade is maintained. MK Diamond Products (800-845-3729)
